Robert Tonner’s celebration of the work of Edith Head produced an exquisite series of dolls, showcasing the costumes and the stars that wore them. We go behind the scenes…
Edith Head (1897-1981) was the premiere Hollywood costume designer of all time. Her career spanned 50 years, with over 1,200 screen credits, 35 Academy Award nominations, and eight Oscars. Head dressed the best and brightest stars of Tinseltown, including Mae West, Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire, Robert Redford and Paul Newman.
In 1938 Edith Head became the first woman ever appointed as chief designer at a major film studio. An internationally acclaimed costume designer, and fashion trend-setter, Head’s creations and style influenced what the world wore.
Robert Tonner began his life in fashion as head designer for Bill Blass, after graduating from New York’s Parson’s School of Design. After designing clothes on 7th Avenue for 15 years, he followed his dream and began sculpting dolls. As a doll artist he has won many industry awards. One of his dolls is in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
The collaboration with Knickerbocker Toys to produce the Edith Head dolls was, in 1998, fairly early on in his doll-making career – ahead of the Tonner Doll Company, and his famous muse, Tyler Wentworth. However, there is something about the sculpts of these Edith Head dolls that presages the look of Tyler, albeit in porcelain as opposed to vinyl.
Tonner’s lifelong interest in fashion and the movies was greatly influenced by Edith Head. “Movies were a great escape for me as a child and one of the reasons for that was the glamour and sophistication of the costumes on the big screen. Edith Head was one of my all-time favorite designers. Her clothing always stood out as classic glamour in the midst of glitz and sparkle.
A white satin figure-hugging gown with fur-trimmed cape, designed by Edith Head. The original was worn by Carole Lombard to attend a premiere with her husband, Clark Gable.
Background image: Gottscho-Schleisner Collection, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
The archetypal Mae West gown. Designed by Head for West’s role as Lady Lou in the film She Done Him Wrong, 1933
Background image: Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
Olivia de Havilland starred as the emotionally fragile Catherine Sloper in The Heiress (1949), with Montgomery Clift. Based on the novel Washington Square by Henry James, Edith Head’s costumes captured the period, as well as suggesting the state of mind of de Havilland’s character.
Background image: Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
The Big Broadcast of 1938 featured W. C. Fields, Bob Hope, and Dorothy Lamour. This eye-catching costume was worn by Shirley Ross in her role as Cleo. Even movie stars have to eat.
Background image: John Margolies Roadside America photograph archive (1972-2008), Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
A confection in pink from the 1937 musical comedy This Way Please. This rhinestone studded gown, with lavish train, was worn in the movie by Betty Grable playing Jane Morrow as a wannabee theater usherette, and soon-to be film star.
Background image: Gottscho-Schleisner Collection, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
For more classic Hollywood style, check out this video featuring Edith Head’s work at Paramount
Here’s a video overview of Robert Tonner’s Hollywood-themed dolls, including many stars of the silver screen, old and new.