Black dolls have come a long way since the early days when manufacturers simply used the same molds for both black and white, and merely changed the color of the plastic. So in celebration of diversity, we take to the catwalk with the latest looks in fashion, modeled here exclusively by some of our favorite black fashionistas…
Fashion Royalty’s NuFace Nadja and Colette (left and right) wear Mattel’s Juicy Couture. Colette’s hair flocked by Alain Tremblay of Integrity at the W 2011 convention flocking workshop; eye color changed by Barış. Photo: Barış
Not so long ago, if you wanted to buy a black doll your choices were limited, and the chances are that the doll you bought would actually be created from a white doll mold – just cast in plastic of a different hue. Shockingly, it was not until the late 1960s that mainstream manufacturers woke up to the fact that they were not accurately representing a whole section of society.
Deva Dolls Malaika in many modes (left to right): Sequin dress Goldmine from Fashion Royalty’s Avant Guard line, shoes Avantguard Live Wire; pale cream dress by Tonner Soho Sheer for Cami, stockings from Superdoll’s Moon, shoes as before; bold use of color in Superdoll’s Geometry skirt, Superdoll’s Katana shoes, stockings from LVNV dolls on eBay, beaded top (using a bracelet) from Claire’s, bracelets from Kenyan Barbie, necklace by Barış; Malaika wears her original gown by Deva Dolls with a corset from Freeze Frame Avantguard. Wig by Michael Hawaii. Photos: Barış
Surprising to some, Mattel, the creator of Barbie, was one of the trailblazers in this respect. The first African American doll in the Barbie range is usually regarded as Christie, who appeared in 1968. A year later the company produced the Julia doll, based on the likeness of Diahann Carrol’s television character. This was one of the first mass-market fashion dolls with truly African American features. There was an earlier doll made in 1967, known as Black Francie, and sometimes described as the first African American Barbie doll. However, she was produced using the white Francie doll head molds and lacked African characteristics other than the skin tone.
Manon from Fashion Doll Agency’s 2012 Collection Noir. This highly posable beauty features an asymmetric moon-shape ponytail. Her hazelnut eyes have applied black felt lashes. She wears a little black jersey dress, and to keep the chill off, a grey oversized sweater with pockets and hood, and knitted collar and wrists. The outfit is accessorized with silver high-heeled sandals and a silver handbag with rose lining. Photo: Jayro Bustamante
Nowadays, doll makers have embraced the diversity of our culture and black fashion dolls are represented as never before. It could be argued that they truly reflect the world of fashion – in the same way that real-life models are impossibly beautiful and too thin, these dolls often suggest ideals that represent only the rarefied few. Although a lot of ground has been covered, we’re still as far away from seeing real women depicted in plastic as we are from seeing them in the pages of glossy magazines.
From left to right: Resin Dheei, 1991, is Mdvanii’s best friend. Dheei’s family is composed of adult brother Zhdrick and teenage brother and sister Jobii and Tzulli. Dheei wears an Alexandre de Paris human hair wig made by Bravot and a Liberty of London print dress. Porcelain Sailor Pizza Party Zhdrick, 1996, wears Biker Boy, 1993, which was made for the earlier resin versions of Mdvanii’s male lover Rhogit-Rhogit and their friend Zhdrick. Doll and fashion by BillyBoy* and Lala. Techno D.J. Jobii (right), 1999. A gorgeous rendition in porcelain by BillyBoy* and Lala, the doll was handmade in France. Photos: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
A trio in scarlet (above), Jamieshow Kyra, Ficon Neo, and Deva Doll’s Malaika are dressed in Ficon Fierce, Tonner Symphonic, and JamieShow Fierce respectively. Photo: Barış
Taking Beyoncé as his inspiration, Tonner’s Luce Bella Esme wears a top created by Barış
The Sybarite Inque wears Superdoll’s Patina (left), and is re-wigged and re-dressed in another Superdoll ensemble, Limousine (right). Wigs are by Monique. Photos: Barış
Malaika and Mungu by Deva Dolls (opposite), Malaika’s wig is by Michael Hawaii. No fashion credits needed for this picture! Photo: Barış
Fashion Royalty’s Adele (left) is wearing Business Class Anja and Nadja (right) is wearing Glam Addict Giselle, both by Integrity Toys.
Photos: Barış
Ready for vacation by day and by night, Fashion Doll Agency’s Manon wears a multi-stripe beach suit and red sandals from the agency’s own collection. Photo: Jayro Bustamante
A close-up of Manon in a red knitted cap shows the bold face sculpt in detail. Photo: Jayro Bustamante
Mattel’s groundbreaking doll, the beautiful Julia, 1969, a doll based on Diahann Carrol’s television character. Photo:
© Ernesto Padró-Campos
A first for Mattel, Black Francie, 1967. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Mel Odom’s Sunset Serenade Violet Waters, 2009, produced by Integrity Toys wears her friend Zita Charles’s Hostess With the Mostest ensemble and jewelry by Joy Jarred. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Sugared Plum Vivette, 2007, by D.A.E. Originals wears her original jewelry and lingerie under Barbie Fashion Model Collection’s Black Enchantment. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Modern retro dolls in the spirit of black vintage dolls created using white head molds. Two OOAK hard plastic Lilli Lalka dolls, 2012: hand-made by artist and creator Julian Kalinowski. They wear fantastic fashions from Retros by Liz Cole. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Sunday Best Silkstone Barbie Fashion Model Collection, 2003, wears fabulous couture by James Bogue. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Bronze Goddess Esmé, 2003, poses with her beau Russell Williams who wears the classic Shall We Dance, 2004, from Basil St. John’s line by Effanbee. Dressed doll Esmé and Russell are by Tonner Doll Company. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos
Dim Dam Dom Tzulli by BillyBoy* and Lala, 1995, is a handmade porcelain doll and limited to an edition of 25. Photo: © Ernesto Padró-Campos.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION For images by Ernesto Padró-Campos:
Dolls from the photographer’s own collection.
VJT Designs: www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22351789
Retros by Liz Cole: www.flickr.com/photos/tags/lizretros/
Bogue’s Vogue: www.etsy.com/shop/boguesvogues
Joy Jarred for De-zyns by Joy: www.etsy.com/market/dezyns_by_joy
Photography: Barış, Jayro Bustamante, Ernesto Padró-Campos.
This feature was originally published in Doll News, Fall 2012